6. Manufacturing Phases and Technologies

1. The Three Main Stages of the Manufacturing Cycle

Every watch component chronologically follows a rigorous transformation sequence, from raw metal to high horology finishing:

• 1° Blanking / Roughing (Primary shaping):
  • Rolling: Reducing metal thickness into calibrated strips.
  • Stamping: Plastic deformation under a press.
  • Punching / Cutting: Initial blanking of rough shapes.
• 2° Dimensional Finishing (Precision machining):
  • Turning & Milling: In conventional methods or on multi-axis CNC machining centers.
  • Electrical Discharge Machining (EDM): Wire EDM for narrow profiles and hardened steels.
• 3° Aesthetic Finishes & Surface Treatments:
  • Traditional decoration: Côtes de Genève, perlage, hand-bevelling (anglage), mirror polishing.
  • Galvanic treatments: Gilding, rhodium plating, nickel plating for protection and aesthetics.

2. Advanced Technologies & Micro-Manufacturing

• LIGA / UV-LIGA Technology: Galvanic growth through a photolithographic mold for complex and open-worked nickel-phosphorus parts.
• Silicon Components: Plasma beam etching (DRIE) for non-magnetic and lubrication-free hairsprings, pallet levers, and escape wheels.
• Synthetic Rubies and Sapphires: Ultrasonic and diamond machining for gear train bearings and protective crystals.